There is an awareness unlike any other when you climb. Self Awareness was something that running enhanced, and I see that bouldering does the same. I had stared at this route for some time before embarking on this. What scared me and excited me about this route was the multiple crimp holds. There were no jug handles, no deep holds I could sink my fingers into. The toe holds were small enough only to have the tips of my toes on it. What this route called for was total body climbing.
My coach Eric Dogpatch Boulders at told me that contrary to popular belief, you can generate a lot of grip with crimp holds, you just need to use your body to create tension for your fingers to grip. If you are grabbing a crimp with your right hand, shift your body to the left to create tension and grip. Vice Versa with the left hand. When you are grabbing a crimp to move upward, drop your hips to create tension so you can pull and use the grip. The key is using an opposing motion with crimp holds.
For weeks I was able to make it 3/4 of the way and hit the same point of impasse. It drove me crazy then made me all the more curious of what I had been missing. My coach Eric guided me to the move needed to get passed the crux: drop left foot into the pocket, cross left arm over right and move right arm to upper crimp. From there, set left foot on tiny toe hold and pop up to the finish. Now that this project is wrapped up, it's time to celebrate then find another problem to solve.